Despite being heralded as extremely sustainably minded and ethically conscious generations, Gen Zers and millennials are the worst culprits when it comes to buying fake goods. Fifty-two per cent of Europeans aged 15-24 (EUIPO, 2022) and 47% of 13- to 39-year-old Americans (YPulse, 2022) admit to intentionally purchasing dupes and fakes. We’ll break down why – and how – they’re doing it.

Central to the conversation about fakes and bootlegs are the intertwined topics of aspiration and luxury. With cost and access being the driving forces behind the growing popularity of counterfeits, it’s crucial to understand how bootlegs act as democratising entry points to luxury spaces for many.

Off-kilter partnerships and frenemy brandalism – both authorised and illegitimate – are all the rage in fashion, allowing for increased creative expression beyond staying ‘on-brand’ and widening the scope of what collaboration means in a major way. We unpack the key visual drivers, consumer attitude shifts and polarising moral concerns propelling this trend forward.

From counteracting viral knockoffs to the coveted aesthetics of low-budget fakes, brands are quickly learning how to capitalise on the counter-cultural whims of young consumers in an ethical yet budget-friendly way. There’s a surprising number of commercial lessons to be learned in this evolving space, with quick wit and acute self-awareness being paramount.

The lockdown-induced and sustainably driven upcycling craze has provided a creative outlet for many designers and consumers alike, opening a Pandora’s box whereby everything from at-home craft projects to sneaker customisation can technically be considered bootlegs. Smart brands are learning to embrace rather than resist innovative outside influences.