Emerging Markets, New Perspectives

For several centuries, the perfume world has been dominated by French and Italian brands. Although they’ve vigorously explored other regions for unfamiliar notes and cultural heritage, the results were interpretations of those cultures, rather than personal experiences of them. Now, brands from Korea, Argentina, China and Lithuania are emerging with fresh voices.

Scent Memories Reimagined

A distinct trend surfaced for nostalgic renditions of scent memories – fragrances inspired by past eras, particularly aimed at millennials and Gen Zers, which hark back to scents worn by older family members. Traditional ingredients violet and rose and powdery make-up notes are prominent, with packaging aesthetics following a vintage theme.

Gourmand’s Continued Growth

Gourmand fragrance – inspired by sweet treats and using notes like vanilla, caramel and luscious fruits – continues to be popular, with global sales expected to grow at a CAGR of 3.8% from 2023 to 2033 (FMI, 2023). This category is evolving with an increasing number of savoury gourmand ingredients like rice, milk and sour notes to appeal to sweet tooths and older consumers who grew up with gourmand fragrances in the 80s and 90s.

Anti-Wellness Hedonism

A bohemian spirit of sensual and artistically expressed hedonism was a noticeable difference at Pitti Fragranze 2023 compared to previous fairs. In a humorous backlash against more spiritual and wellness-inspired trends (which we will see continuing apace), new experimental fragrances celebrate indulgence, vice and true expressionism.