Unapologetically absorbed in self-expression, these avant-gardists embrace joyful clutter and bold colour. The Empowered Experimentalists aesthetic embraces absolute play, outlandish maximalism, and peak self-reckoning. Post-lockdown optimism and escapism are evident in this cohort’s looks as they amplify the celebration of gender, race, sexuality and body shape. Brands like Auné, Chet Lo (both UK), Marshall Columbia and Conner Ives (both US) lead on this front demonstrating an affinity for fun and nostalgia, with sustainability a baseline priority. This collective is most relevant in global cultural hubs like London, New York, Los Angeles, Paris, Berlin, Madrid and Shanghai.

A viral trend encapsulating the idea of radical individuality and personality is cluttercore. Full of people showcasing maximalist bedroom décor, the hashtag on TikTok has over 66 million views. A curated kind of chaos, the rooms are not disorganised or messy, but rather joyfully dense.

Another TikTok-propagated microtrend is the weird girl aesthetic, popularised by celebrities like Bella Hadid and Dua Lipa. The look involves wearing mismatched garments – clashing patterns, different textures and funky accessories. The kidcore aesthetic is an antidote to the humdrum of work-from-home pandemic dressing, moving away from the minimal look and instead dressing eclectically and quirkily.

Eager to embrace community and identity, this cohort is all about finding joy in expression and connection. This summer, British artist Adam Frost organised a monthly night out in Stoke Newington’s mezcal bar Doña with the most iconic London club kids, drag artists and dancers for an evening of queer celebration.

As sexual self-expression becomes more prominent amongst the cohort, this sense of empowerment extends to media platforms. Spanish biannual publication Odiseo combines erotic imagery with insightful texts to explore eroticism and desire conceptually, moving away from gender and sensual stereotypes.

This collective continues to take interest in psychedelic experiences. Trip is an app that guides users through their psychedelic journeys. The interface is designed to help them make the most of their consciousness-expanding experiences, providing guidance around setting intentions, meditative audio clips, and journaling prompts.

In terms of music, artists like Sofi Tukker, singer Amber Mark and band Muna (all US-based), as well as Colombian group Bomba Estéreo and Puerto Rican duo Buscabulla, are on the radar for this culturally expressive collective.

Brands enjoyed by this cohort centre sustainability in their work, creating made-to-order garments or sourcing vintage and upcycled materials. Independent designers push the boundaries of nostalgia and kitsch, and explore futuristic silhouettes and shapes.

Relevant US labels include Connor Ives, PH5 (challenging conceptions of knitwear through whimsical and architectural design), and gender-expansive, body-empowering brand Fang. There’s also Terrence Zhou’s Bad Binch Tongtong (which creates radically geometric silhouettes), knitwear designer Hsiao-Han, vegan leather brand ManMadeSkins, and Melitta Baumeister (who designs eccentric sculpted garments).

In the UK, Chet Lo creates 3D spiky textures through knitwear inspired by Japanese comics, the American 50s, and retro-futurism. Merging terror and beauty, Julian Scarry uses pleats and horror-inspired graphics to create dramatic and glamorous looks. Meanwhile, Pip Paz-Howlett makes upcycled and heat-reactive silk-screen garments, and HelHel Studio employs playful, voluminous shapes and sustainable methods.

Also in Britain, 90s-reminiscent Poster Girl creates hyper-feminine silhouettes, Michaela Stark makes custom lingerie and corset pieces, SLXWorld focuses on colourful graphics and illustrations, and Lauren Perrin crafts colourful printed gloves and tights. Other noteworthy designers include Sinéad O’Dwyer, Ella Douglas, Victor X Wang, Steven Chevallier, George Trochopoulous, and Gregory Ojakpe.

Inspiring European designers include Constança Entrudo (Lisbon), who hand-weaves fabrics from recycled threads; Marianna Ladreyt (Paris), who makes bags from upcycled inflatable pool animals; and Julia Heuer (Paris), whose prints, pleats and designs are influenced by the Japanese tie-dyeing technique shibori.

Also in mainland Europe, GmbH (Berlin) merges workwear and streetwear; Cult Form (Istanbul/Berlin) is inspired by traditional Turkish craftsmanship; Pupchen (Paris/Venice) makes sustainable footwear; and nature-inspired Ninamounah (Amsterdam) uses psychedelic shapes and patterns. Other notable labels include Oséree (Milan), Maria ke Fisherman (Madrid), Ester Manas (Brussels), and Japan-born Chez Ichiro, Egon Lab, and Jonatan Fisher (all Paris).

In Asia, Pronounce (based in Shanghai, alongside Milan) makes genderless garments inspired by Indian, Chinese and Tibetan cultures, while Beijing-based Buerlangma designs extravagant gowns. Celine Kwan (Hong Kong/London) makes kitschy, sculptural garments – encapsulating utopia and joy, and embodying the 60s and 70s with a futuristic spin. Tokyo-based Ryunosuke Okazaki is another influential name.

In Australia, designer Bethany Cordwell creates conceptual, sculptural dresses that feature hypnotic patterns made from hand-cut and sewn feather-like components. Melbourne-based streetwear brand Karlaidlaw makes handmade pieces experimenting with all kinds of fabrics and Sydney-based Caroline Reznik’s shimmering bodices use intricately knitted crystal components.

This cohort continues to favour independent designers and curated e-vintage stores. Instagram has become a hotspot for small businesses and independent designers to sell their niche pieces. Online boutiques selling handmade crafts – like Maddy Page Knitwear, Picnic Palace and Three Pigs – speak to Gen Z’s affinity for one-of-a-kind design, kitsch, colour and sustainability. Representing the kooky aesthetic taken on by this experimentalist cohort, indie online jewellery designers like Nes, Ugly Accessories and Sweet Thing create accessories with unique charms and beads, and New York brand Dollchunk makes goods out of baby-doll heads.

New media outlets and publications provide platforms for fresh creative voices. In its first year, British fashion journalist Katie Grand’s Perfect Magazine has featured photographers like Brazilian Rafael Pavarotti and Malaysian Zhong Lin. Partial Magazine celebrates the intersection of art and fashion, and has featured images by Celine (Berlin) and Edward Mulvihill (Sydney). Meanwhile, Milan-based visual art platform Cap 74024 explores eras, art and fashion, investigating voyeurism through image collections such as The Male Gaze and Leisure.

From fluffy tutus to fuzzy accessories, Canadian creator Sara Camposarcone takes to Instagram and TikTok (764,000 followers) to display her kitschy kidcore and dopamine dressing. Paris-based hair artist Olivier Schawalder creates space-age-inspired futuristic styles and wigs. See also Australian stylist and art director Jamie-Maree Shipton for her humorous and playful fashion content. Elsewhere, London-based American supermodel Kristen McMenamy has garnered attention on social media for her kooky and conceptual Instagram selfies and portraits.

In Spain, influencer Miranda Makaroff displays her life through a humorous and psychedelic lens with fluorescent graphics and colour, while DJ, model and influencer Sita Abellan showcases her style inspired by manga and techno music. She also has a jewellery line, Lilith by Sita. Also worth following is Madrid-based stylist and fashion consultant Alicia Padrón, whose luxe-meets-maximalist aesthetic incorporates vibrant colour and patterns.

In the US, see Seattle’s Non-Stop Boogie for her chromatic outfits and accessories, as well as Los Angeles-based Jasmina for her statement prints and oversized garments.

Image-makers worth noting are Munich-based Russian experimental fashion and fine-art photographer Elizaveta Porodina, Paris-based portrait and fashion photographer Julien Martinez Leclerc, New York-based Canadian photographer Conor Cunningham, and the aforementioned Zhong Lin. There’s also New York- and London-based Charlotte Wales, who creates ethereal editorials. Elsewhere in London, surreal image-making duo Scandebergs take a cinematic approach to their photography, and Lea Colombo creates high-saturation film.

Our five-track Empowered Experimentalists playlist features Charli XCX, Muna, The Marías, FKA Twigs and Buscabulla.