The standout ingredient dominating product launches across Cosme Tokyo was skin health powerhouse exosomes (usually in combination with other popular actives). Within skincare (accounting for more than $22bn of Japan’s beauty and personal care market), anti-ageing continues to be a commercial category, driven by an ageing population and strong societal pressure to look as young as possible.

The Japanese skincare market is very sophisticated, and its customers expect their facial care products to feature highly effective and fast-working cosmetic actives. Functional beauty – products formulated with high concentrations of active ingredients – has been trending globally, and many Asian brands at the show focused on ingredient-driven skincare with a strong scientific slant.

Classic skincare ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, peptides and plant extracts, have already become a staple in other categories, like haircare, bodycare and colour cosmetics (see Beauty Projections 24-26). At Cosme Tokyo, the skinification trend was particularly visible in make-up launches – from foundations featuring fermented plant extracts to retinol-infused lip oils and mascaras packed with hair growth complexes.

Product minimalism was another key influence at Cosme Tokyo this year, in line with the global trend towards streamlining beauty rituals and decluttering skincare line-ups. Among the new launches, multi-purpose products stood out, as both Korean and Japanese brands catered for consumers looking to simplify their beauty routines.