Biodesign: The Future of Fragrance
Published 13 October 2022
Smart brands are championing biodesign as a nature-safe production process, with intriguing developments emerging in the fragrance industry. Merging modern biotechnology with luxury craftsmanship, US perfume brand Aeir is reimagining existing scent extraction practices and exploring the possibilities of synthetic biology.
Aeir’s perfumes are entirely lab-made, protecting the environment from high-intensity agriculture and extraction methods. Its molecular fragrance formulas avoid the use of botanically derived materials, while its waterless format removes the ‘eau’ in ‘eau de parfum’.
“We wanted to flip the codes of luxury on their head by removing the finite resources and decimation of rare botanicals that are often at the heart of luxury – its exclusivity,” co-founder Rodrigo Caula told US magazine Gotham.
Personal, deep-rooted memories inspire Aeir’s four scents. “Imagine landing on Mars and being one of 120 people selected to build a new civilisation,” Caula told UK magazine Wallpaper. “Your first memory would be of home.” Wet Stone is a mineral-inspired aroma that transports the mind to Carrara, Italy through a distinctive bioengineered Ambergris note, while Virgin Olive evokes a Mediterranean garden with earthy, cannabis-esque accents. Grand Rose reinterprets the scent of rose – moving away from the typically heavy floral notes – and Suede takes inspiration from leather and soft cashmere.
The silver coating for their refillable aluminium cases is made via a zero-waste process originally developed by Nasa to protect turbine components in outer space. Known as photo-initiated chemical vapour deposition, it entails shooting metal into a vacuum that then molecularly bonds to the surface. Apart from delivering an ultra-sleek aesthetic, this method also eliminates the risk of creating environment-polluting microplastics.
Brands like Aeir are expanding the realms of sustainable luxury, showcasing unique opportunities for fragrance businesses. For more biodesign innovations in the perfume industry, see The Brief.
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