Beauty Accelerate 2022: Ingredient Insights

Plant-Powered Scalp & Haircare: Panellists discussed the ‘skinification’ of hair – a trend we charted in 2018 as well as this year – describing a growing interest in a healthy scalp and microbiome. Non-chemical, botanical products and ingredients took centre stage, with companies displaying new lines of protectants to support scalp health, and activators to boost cell renewal.

Brazilian personal care brand Chemyunion’s Restart Pro repairs and protects chemically damaged hair (increasing strength by up to 25.3%) through a combination of acids, pro-vitamin B5, and polysaccharides extracted from linseed and chia seeds. The ingredient can be used in shampoos, conditioners, treatment masks and sprays, forming a protective barrier on the hair without build-up.

Elsewhere, US-based Raaka’s World’s Flourish serum targets dryness, itchiness, and breaking and thinning hair. It contains marula oil to protect follicles and encourage growth, amla oil to revitalise the scalp, and rosemary oil to improve blood circulation.

Fellow US brand Nutrafol’s Growth Activator serum is formulated with ashwagandha exosomes to boost cell renewal and thick hair growth. It also incorporates pea sprouts to minimise breakage, green tea to support stronger-feeling hair, and sea buckthorn and moringa to nourish and hydrate.

Bio-Based & Biodegradable Solutions: Bio-based formulations were a huge focus, as brands look to cater to ingredient-aware and eco-conscious consumers.

German eco-friendly ingredient supplier BASF’s Care Creations launched Verdessence, a line of biopolymers made from sustainably sourced raw materials. Verdessence RiceTouch is a plant-based sensory powder with small particles that reduce greasiness for a matte finish. And Verdessence Alginate is a versatile algae-derived modifier and thickening agent suitable for many skin and haircare formulations.

Singaporean brand Sage & Ylang offers customisable care for the microbiome, offering active-ingredient Beauty Boosters like Glow (for uneven skin tones) or Clarify (for acne control). These can be poured into an essence – which contains fermented black tea, olive leaf extract, and aloe vera juice – to create a personalised and targeted skincare routine. The line is 99% plant-derived and 99.5% biodegradable.

Meanwhile, in suncare, US beauty ingredient manufacturer Hallstar’s SolaPure Glo uses turmeric to boost anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. The curcuminoids found in the spice are known to reduce the production of reactive oxygen species, biochemical reactions which lead to oxidative skin damage. The formulation – combining turmeric root extract with vegetable oil and jojoba seed oil – works to improve the sun protection factor, control hyperpigmentation, and provide a soothing skin feel.

Waterless Work: Typical beauty formulations contain high amounts of water (usually 70-80%). As we discuss in our June Beauty Sustainability Round-Up, sustainable packaging for brands is no longer a nice-to-have – it’s becoming an imperative. Beauty Accelerate saw a focus on waterless products to support this trend. Eliminating the ingredient not only reduces a company’s water footprint, but also eliminates fillers and preservatives, resulting in more concentrated and effective products.

As featured in our report Sensory Self-Care, US brand Kate McLeod’s Body Stones are solid moisturisers for the face and body. The waterless moisturisers contain over 80% cocoa butter and a mixture of essential oils, delivering concentrated natural ingredients. Every body stone comes in a bamboo container with a 100% cotton wrap to hold it as you apply, with refills available at a lower cost.

Also in the US, skincare manufacturer Taiki’s Bōshi Fiber uses nanotechnology to produce two lines of paper-thin strips that dissolve when applied to wet skin. The first has four offerings: a jojoba-oil-derived cleanser, a hyaluronic acid booster, a salicylic and mandelic acid blemish preventer, and a cica and oat-extract-based inflammation soother. The second delivers 10mg of CBD with a blend of hyaluronic acid. These highly concentrated strips allow for a nearly waterless delivery of ingredients, cutting out emulsifiers and fillers.

For more learnings in this sector, Stylus members can see Beauty’s Nature-Focused Future, and keep an eye out for our Look Ahead 2023.