Women’s World Cup Boosts Fashion’s Football Frenzy

The demand for ‘blokecore’ – which shows no signs of abating (Depop searches for “vintage football shirt” are up 344% compared to last month and Brazil merch is trending on TikTok) – is evolving into a more open-source, haphazard style that leans extremely feminine. As such, the kits of women’s football teams are gaining increased attention among fans, with a continued emphasis on heritage in the design process – a key example being Adidas and British-Jamaican designer Grace Wales Bonner’s much-hyped jersey for the Jamaican squad.

In response, brands have been quick to capitalise on playful lifestyle collaborations that experiment with merging sportswear aesthetics with contemporary fashion-led prints, colours and silhouettes. Look to UK-based Art of Football's first-ever lifestyle collection, Adidas’s partnership with Chinese label Shuting Qiu, and Nike’s latest Ambush capsule for inspiration.

Additionally, luxury fashion labels from Dior to Zegna have been going all in on off-pitch wardrobes for men’s teams recently, with the trend extending to womenswear for the World Cup. Standout collaborations include Nike and Martine Rose’s inspired tailoring for Team USA, and Prada’s super-sleek suiting for China’s national side.

What’s most interesting here is a noted move away from the emphasis on locality and heritage that has dominated on-pitch-apparel team-ups (Prada is Italian and Martine Rose is UK-based). Instead, a celebration of creative, cross-community collaboration prevails in dressed-up team wardrobes that’s in keeping with the joyous atmosphere surrounding the competition.

In footwear, the aforementioned Nike x Martine Rose collaboration reimagines the Shox system as a slip-on heeled mule, tapping into the glamorous, sporty hybrid trend that’s rapidly gaining popularity – and street cred – in the sneaker world.

Commercial hype and sartorial credentials aside, sports and active brands across the board are developing game-changing products in response to the unique needs of female athletes, highlighting the importance of designing performance gear specifically with women front-of-mind.

Myriad women’s teams including England’s national squad have switched from white to dark shorts to ease anxieties around periods. And Nike has followed the lead of brands like Knix (Canada), Iceni (UK) and Modibodi (Australia) by launching shorts with an absorbent liner that will be worn by all 13 of the Nike-sponsored sides participating in the tournament. Elsewhere, Australia’s Zena has developed a protective vest to help prevent breast injury in contact sport.

Another key area for innovation? Boots designed specifically for female footballers. Considering they’re significantly more at risk of ACL injuries than their male counterparts, and 82% report feeling pain and discomfort in ‘traditional’ cleats, this shift is long overdue.

Australia’s Ida Sports is ahead of the curve in this exciting market. Additionally, Under Armour also already makes boots specifically for women, with Nike, Puma and Adidas all releasing female-led cleats to coincide with this year’s Women’s World Cup, paving the way for further development in this space.

It’s clear that brands and fans alike are taking women’s sport seriously, and the commercial appetite for team merch and fashion-focused collaboration is undoubtedly growing. But the most exciting advancements happen when women are prioritised during the design process. From innovation-led performance apparel updates to feminine spins on classic (and coveted) sneaker silhouettes, don’t risk missing out by downplaying the influence of female sport – and its mashed-up aesthetics.

Keep an eye out for Youth Style Collectives 2024 (publishing in early September) for directional updates on Gen Z sportswear styling.