Womenswear A/W 24: Global Catwalks Round-Up

Shades of camel deliver a quietly luxe look that makes this the neutral of the season. A key colour that works across all product areas, especially outerwear, it’s styled in single-shade head-to-toe looks, or complemented by vibrant accents like sorbet pink.

From Dubai to Shanghai via Madrid and Berlin, a full palette of rich brown shades is hitting the sweet spot for A/W 24. Think everything from spicy cinnamon and ginger through to intensely luxe espresso, the perfect tonal palette to team with offbeat accents of pink or sky blue.

These powerful orchid pinks are packing a punch, with a definite blue cast moving last season’s sweet Barbiecore bubble-gum hues into a more sophisticated dimension. This more grown-up take on pink is ideal for the fashion-aware contemporary customer who wants to make a statement. 

The global runways follow the lead of this season’s Big Four by introducing these pretty sorbet pales into next winter’s colour card. The look is refreshingly optimistic and upbeat, with cool mint or pistachio tones, lemon, Parma violet and strawberry looking new for everything from tailoring to outerwear and soft dressing.

After the last few seasons’ celebrations of teddy fleeces and frankly fake novelty furs, we’re seeing a return to luxurious real fur effects, with the full fur coat or chubby jacket making a comeback alongside statement fur trims. Watch for this direction incorporating upcycled or pre-loved furs.

Global runway designers are unanimous in their use of velvet as a key fabric direction for next winter, looking especially luxurious when teamed with the season’s rich brown palette. The scope is broad, from slinky panne through to plush cotton velvet and stretch velours.

Following the lead of the Big Four fashion cities this season, transparencies emerge as a key fabric direction for the global fashion weeks, with sheer organza, tulle and stretch mesh creating discreet peek-a-boo looks.

Sleek satin is still having a moment, from fluid charmeuse bias-cut dresses, to the more sculpted effects of duchess satin outerwear – all in a season-ready palette of rich brown, playful brights or pretty pales. Watch for satin putting a fashion spin on core items like the classic trench, and quilted effects adding surface dimension.

Pre-loved denim delivers a distinct contrast to the luxe-touch fabrics prevalent on this season’s global runways, with designers refashioning and upcycling washed and worn looks into of-the-moment silhouettes featuring raw edges, mixed washes and pretty decorative trims.

We featured the growing interest in bold black and white prints in our recent catwalk analysis reports, and the global runways confirm the look – tapping into the trend with monochrome toile de jouy, simple scribbled blooms, eye-popping stripes and stylised floral silhouettes. 

Confirmation of another print direction we’ve been tracking for the past couple of seasons, inspiration is drawn from the earth and sky for atmospheric swirls and splatters that deliver an updated, sophisticated take on the perennial tie-dye theme.

Playful pattern mixes are the theme here, with collaged prints creating a mismatched upcycled feel either worked in a riotous patchwork of brights, or the more subtle appeal of a simplified tonal palette, as seen here by Tokyo label Tanaka.

A/W 24 is the season of the big coat, with all-enveloping silhouettes featuring classic double-breasted button details, or the more casual appeal of a soft bathrobe wrap. The look has a masculine sensibility, with tailored shoulder lines and ankle-skimming proportion play worked in a classic palette of camel and grey.

Biker style is having a moment as a key component of the considered core basics mood of the moment. The look is laid back and commercial, with classic biker jackets, revamped oversized looks and biker gilets in classic black, season-ready fashion colours, denim or luxe metallics.

While the classic trench is an ongoing key item globally, these short casual rain jackets are a new take on all-weather looks. Already appearing at high-street retail level, this is an upcoming trend with plenty of mileage for several seasons to come, worked in classic neutrals or winter darks.

Tailoring takes on a gender-fluid appeal here, with masculine/feminine inspiration delivering boxy blazers, pinstripes, sassy waistcoats and shorts, teamed with a classic shirt and tie, or layered with lace trousers and camisoles for a more seductive boardroom-to-cocktail-bar take on the look. 

A retro revival of the 90s layered bustier dress was an unexpected look on runways from Tokyo to Dubai via Shanghai and Copenhagen, delivering another interpretation of masculine/feminine dressing when teamed with a classic white shirt. 

While flirty micro-minis featured on many runways this season, A/W 24’s most directional skirt shape sees full mid-calf silhouettes hitting the sweet spot: feminine but casual, and a little bit vintage-inspired when teamed with a biker, rounded blouson, preppy sweater or waist-cinched knit.

The mood is tactile, with feminine soft-touch sweaters or neat-fit cardigans worked in a palette of pretty pales or dramatic orchid pink. Think brushed finishes, cuddly eyelash yarns or delicate angora and mohair for touchy-feely appeal.

A feel for caped effects was key on the Big Four runways this season, with the global fashion weeks seeing the trend translate into local currency everywhere from Berlin to Sao Paolo. A commercial take featuring split-sleeve details updates classic tailoring and items like the trench.