Copenhagen Fashion Week S/S 24

Colour goes into the wide blue yonder here, with a palette of calming sky blues creating a cool but positive mood for S/S 24. A key commercial look worn as one colour head to toe, or in subtle mismatched tones – maybe teamed with understated accents of crisp white.

Double denim still has mileage as a key fabric/styling direction for next summer, and the CFW runways promoted it in the form of simple shirt jackets combined with slouch jeans, casual denim skirts and easy shorts for a new ‘less is more’ approach.

A good transitional/early season fabric direction here, with super-lightweight quilting making a statement for everything from casual jackets and pullover tops, to midi skirts and even dresses in a palette of spring-like pastels and classic summer brights.

Classic shirting stripes suit the emerging ‘less is more’ mood of the moment. Quiet and simple with a timeless appeal, these cotton shirtings take on a new dimension when worked in season-ready fashion colours and combined with coordinated relaxed shirt/shorts/trouser silhouettes. 

Directional print and pattern were off the radar in Copenhagen this season, with designers relying on traditional dye techniques to compliment the overriding mood for all things simple and minimal. A strong print trend to combine with classic indigos and washed denim blues.

Watch for A/W 23’s mood for quiet luxury morphing into summer mode, pre-empting Stylus’ S/S 25 Fashion Direction Lucid with an emphasis on relaxed fits, understated laid-back silhouettes, and a calming ‘no colour’ palette of whites and neutrals played out in simple cottons and linen.

Here we see confirmation of Stylus’ S/S 24 Fashion Direction Clean Reset, with CFW embracing stylised sports-inspired looks combining pragmatic joggers, bloused sweat tops, retro blousons and athletic shorts with subtle volume to create a new take on sports-themed silhouettes.  

The classic raincoat emerges as CFW’s hot key item for next summer, tapping into the mood for all things pragmatic and pared back. We love the simplicity of the look, seamlessly melding casual with soft formal styling for a quiet, timeless approach that perfectly reflects the tenor of the moment.

Another classic, albeit it with a more rugged appeal, as the timeless biker jacket comes back onto the fashion radar. This season’s update embraces a longer silhouette, with thigh-hugging hemlines delivering a subtle new take on a perennial look.

A very definitive silhouette here, with Copenhagen designers opting for the ankle-skimming or shoe-puddling trouser layered under a thigh-high A-line mini, looking best as a matching colour-coordinated silhouette.

Utilitarian detailing and practicality are the buzzwords for the ongoing appeal of the coverall or boilersuit, worked in pragmatic denims and twills, or taking on a softer summery look in simple stripes or bi-colour prints, as seen here at Marimekko.

Easy relaxed silhouettes were a strong direction on the latest Copenhagen runways, as designers turn away from revealing body-con looks to something softer and more forgiving, giving the slouch jean a renewed lease of life for another season.  

Another evolving trend here, with the ongoing soft short hitting the sweet spot for S/S 24. Silhouettes are relaxed and easy in both knits and wovens, with knee-scraping hemlines teamed with mid-rise waist details bridging the gap between casual and soft formal.

The CFW runways also highlight the jersey or knitted short as a key item for the more junior customer next summer, with easy pull-on styling and mini thigh-high silhouettes delivering one of the flirtiest looks of the season so far.

The wrap skirt evolves the sarong silhouettes highlighted in our latest Resort 24 report, and with lengths to suit every lifestyle, from thigh-high to maxi, this look promises to be one of next summer’s most commercial winners.

Sustainability was one of the key issues promoted at CFW, with designers highlighting responsibly sourced fabrics and innovative planet-friendly yarn developments like Circulose, made from 100% textile waste, as well as creating innovative new knit structures.

Controlled volume was one of the key details to emerge in Copenhagen, with drawstrings and drawcords creating subtle ruched and draped effects on both knits and woven base cloths – a key look we can expect to see hit the high street anytime soon.