S/S 24 Couture Hair & Beauty

This season, a youthful, dewy glow emerges as a key finish, with smooth, luminous skin enhanced by considered skincare prep, light-reflecting highlighter and subtle blush for a natural look.

Digi-inspired sensorial texture also comes through as surreal, glass-like skin – as seen at Maison Margiela, where “glazed elegance meets doll divinity”, according to make-up artist Pat McGrath. Achieved using a product McGrath has revealed is soon to be launched, the look – already recreated by artificial intelligence beauty artist Illusory Beauty – introduces new visions of beauty by showcasing how Couture fashion week is inspiring creativity for future seasons as well as opportunities to launch new products.

From creative colour play across the eyes and cheeks to embellished adornment and oversized eyelash extensions, make-up this season takes a playful and artistic approach.

Again at Maison Margiela, creative colour play is used to achieve an exaggerated doll-like flush with yellow blush and murky green lips for a ghostly, romantic feel – a look described as “a study of the muse-like relationship between artists and their anatomical lay dolls” by the brand. 

Elsewhere, long feathery lashes are displayed at Giambattista Valli, while heavy, encrusted gems are spotlighted at Jean Paul Gaultier (guest designed by Simone Rocha), and surreal silver molten tears are positioned under the eyes at Yuima Nakazato.

Subtle metallic shimmer evolves this season with a focus on playful application around the eyes. From blended bright purples and pinks to murky blues, neutral silvers and rose golds, shimmer is centred around the tear ducts and lower lash line, as well as across the lids and ears for a surprising aesthetic (see Schiaparelli).

A retrofuturistic look emerges, with Star Wars-esque buns on each side of the head. Elsewhere, geometric partings and sleek, alien-like hair styling enriches this trend – as seen with Fendi’s fluid tooth-mark effect and Antonio Grimaldi’s gill-like hair structure.

Meanwhile, metallic paint sweeps horizontally across the eyes, evocative of fictional character Pris Stratton in dystopian 1980s sci-fi film Blade Runner.

From spiral buns to exquisite braids, sculptural up-dos make for an exciting hair trend this season. Dior showcases a standout example with detailed braids pulled into low buns, adorned with black velvet ribbon for an added touch of elegance. Black satin ribbons and floral elements are added to oversized ponytails at Giambattista Valli, while black bows also embellish sleek buns at Viktor & Rolf.

Elsewhere, the end strands of hair are left emerging out of secured buns (see Yanina) for added drama, shape and dimension.